Ann Arbor's Red Hot Lovers does it Chicago-style

By Jenny Rubinfeld
For the Daily

Don't get too excited by the name Red Hot Lovers - it's not an adult novelty store or a sexy lingerie shop. Red Hot Lovers is, in fact, a popular Ann Arbor hot doggery named for an often-heard-phrase in Chicago's Wrigley Field and Comisky Park, "Get your red hot!" The name "red hot" refers to the hot dog, which is usually ruddy, and, if prepared correctly, steaming hot.

Red Hot Lovers was established in 1983 by Alan Cantor, a Chicago native and hot dog lover, and his partner, Tom Blackburn, with the idea of bringing a "Chicago-style hot dog place to Ann Arbor," according to current owner and manager Dennis Jones.

The restaurant was sold to a corporation in hope of creating a franchise in the late '80s, but this idea failed, and in order to keep the Ann Arbor establishment from closing down, managers Jones and Chris Timmann bought it in '93. "I just couldn't let it close down," Jones said.

A colorful sign hangs on the store's facade, and coupled with a pair of red awnings, the hot dog joint appears to be straight out of the Windy City. However, located between an apartment complex and a residential house, you may have walked past this hole-in-the-wall, thinking it looks a bit out of place.

Arguably one of Ann Arbor's busiest and most popular eateries, Red Hot Lovers is a small, one-room, diner-esque joint that bustles during peak dining hours. Counter seats surround the open kitchen, while a handful of booths line the walls, creating the feel of an indoor hot dog stand. The restaurant tries to emulate the authenticity of the quintessential Chicago hot dog house.

Based on the responses of its patrons, Red Hot Lovers may have met its goal. "The hot dogs taste as fine as any Chicago hot dog that I have ever had. However, it is more expensive and takes too long, and ... the decoration doesn't sell me on the place, it's the dog that matters," second-year law student David Agay said.

But this hotdog eatery isn't just known for its weiners. "I had a class in the School of Education Building and it looked interesting, so I came in," LSA junior Joellen Meckley said. Meckley is a lover of some of the restaurant's red hot alternatives, like the chicken teriyaki and the turkey burger.

The simple red-and-white decor allows for an inundation of Chicago memorabilia, ranging from street signs to Cubs pennants to autographed blues and jazz paraphernalia, which goes along with the background music. There is even a poster pleading, "Please Give Our Dogs a Nice Warm Home," picturing a portly gentleman patting his obviously full belly (he must be a red hot lover), as well as other various bric-a-brac, including a corner shelf filled with Mr. Potato Heads.

"Our music is well known, as is our decor. We try to keep it as low-key as possible. People don't want to come in to formula, plastic decor. We go out of our way for our food, not our decor. We put up coat racks and our customers were shocked," Jones said.

"They play good music, and they are really friendly. It's a pretty laid-back place, except during lunch time it gets really crowded," Meckley said.

This happening spot is down home and intimate, although during lunch time you may not have time to chat with the friendly cashier, as the crowd moves in. Service is quick and straight to business in this bus-your-own-table dive. But this is all part of the Red Hot experience - the experience of hard core hot doggery.

"They very much expect you to be a hot dog expert. They don't really allow for rookies," Agay said.

While this might not be the most romantic destination for you and your lover on Valentine's day, it is "hot dogs of a higher class," Jones said.

But while maybe not the traditional destination for Valentine's Day, some don't frown on taking a significant other to the vanue. "I would probably not come here on Valentine's Day. It is not romantic, but it is fun and I would definitely come here on a casual date," Meckley said.

The menu runs the hot dog gamut, with the simple Red Hot, the Chicago Dog, the Coney Dog, the Reuben Dog, the Mighty Dog and the Serious Dog, as well as the more pricey sausage and bratwurst. The menu also boasts sandwiches and burgers. To appeal to non-red hot lovers, the restaurant offers vegetarian alternatives: the Tofu Dog, BBQ Tofu, the No Burger (a tempeh patty) and the No Dog (just cheese on a bun).

A unique attraction at Red Hot Lovers is the wide expanse of free condiments, including honey, spicy and yellow mustards, Clancy's Famous hot sauce, grilled or raw onions, hot peppers and sauerkraut, just to name a few. Hanging near the chalkboard-style menu is a sign pushing the customer to take advantage of these additions: "Load 'Em Up Folks, The Condiments Are Free."

"The prices are moderate, yet not inexpensive. It is probably a $6 average. We do our pricing by how our suppliers charge us," Jones said.

Competition is encroaching with the increasingly popular and inexpensive hot dog stands that have found a presence on almost all busy Ann Arbor street corners. "The hot dog stands are junk. I am not worried about that," Jones said.

"When I am in the mood for greasy food, to splurge, I definitely come here. The fries are awesome," Meckley said.

So if you can't afford to take your lover to Chicago for some real red hot loving (of the hot dog variety, that is), try this greasy spoon. For a fraction of the price, you get the same idea and, if you are lucky, the name might arouse some excitement (although you might want to bring along some roses and chocolates, just in case).


AJA DEKLEVA COHEN/Daily
Michael Schuey enjoys the waffle-cut fries at Red Hot Lovers.

02-13-97

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